The fabled seventh hole at Highlands Links, one of the best three shot holes in the world.

Note: This story originally appeared in T&L Golf in 2006. Prices have not been updated.

Tee Times In Atlantic Canada

Greenbacks are golden in the Atlantic Provinces of Canada, where Gaelic festivals and great golf go hand in glove

From July 2006 By Robert Thompson

Atlantic Canada is where the Old World meets the New, where travelers can enjoy the lilting accents and rhythms of traditional Gaelic festivals without leaving North America. Among the first European outposts on the continent, dating back more than five hundred years, this rugged region consists of the aptly named Maritime Provinces: Newfoundland, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia (Latin for “New Scotland”) and little sibling Prince Edward Island (PEI is famous for its succulent mussels and oysters). It’s a place where the best of urban life can be celebrated in the vibrant port of Halifax, Nova Scotia, with its upscale hotels, friendly pubs and thriving music scene. And for rustic charm, there’s Cape Breton Island, where in 1497 the explorer John Cabot unfurled the British royal standard. Today the Cabot Trail, a ribbon of highway strung along cliffs high above the ocean, is a can’t-miss scenic drive— especially since the journey’s reward is one of the truly great golf courses of the world. Stanley Thompson’s Highlands Links is a heroic and utterly unique seaside and forest masterpiece. The course has been the area’s biggest draw for golfers for decades, but the emergence of newer layouts such as Bell Bay and Glen Arbour have helped create as engaging and varied of a golf experience as you’re likely to find on this side of the pond. Best of all, the favorable exchange rate—all prices below are U.S.—only makes Atlantic Canada’s world-class courses even more alluring.

Where to Play

Highlands Links *****
Stanley Thompson, the patriarch of Canadian golf architecture, built his reputation by designing courses with features bold enough to match their majestic surroundings. Highlands Links, which Thompson often referred to with beautiful simplicity as “the mountains and ocean course,” may well be his masterpiece. Constructed during the Depression with only basic shaping equipment, it hits a classical note right from the opening hole, a straightaway par four with a rumpled fairway that resembles the surface of the moon in green. From there, the course sprawls alongside the ocean before heading up into the forests of Cape Breton Highlands National Park. There are many loving references to Scotland—strange hole names, like “Killiecrankie” and “Mucklemouth Meg”; an out-and-back routing; renditions of Alps and Eden holes—but the landscape is quintessentially Canadian, and Thompson was fearless in making his own mark on the Highlands. In a strategy he used regularly, the course is divided equally between one-, two- and three-shot holes, creating a distinct rhythm to the round. Drama and difficulty build and release before Highlands Links hammers players with a stretch of finishing holes to rival any in the world. Rustic, razor sharp and as thrilling a golf experience as can be found at any public course in North America.
Middle Head Peninsula, Ingonish Beach, Nova Scotia; 800-441-1118, highlandslinksgolf.com. Yardage: 6,592. Par: 72. Slope: 141. Architect: Stanley Thompson, 1941. Greens Fee: $77.

Dundarave Golf Course ****
An intriguing design from the office of Michael Hurdzan and Dana Fry (with associate Jason Straka taking the lead on the project), Dundarave features a mix of links and parkland styles. Given the differing types of terrain, Dundarave should feel schizophrenic; instead, distinctive flashed bunkering and large greens give the course cohesiveness. The eighth hole, a mid-length par four with a green perched along the Brudenell River, forces players to challenge the dastardly bunkers that abound—quite a task amid such striking scenery. Route 3, Roseneath, Cardigan, Prince Edward Island; 800-235-8909, golflinkspei.com. Yardage: 7,089. Par: 72. Slope: 139. Architects: Michael Hurdzan and Dana Fry, 1999. Greens Fees: $53–$76.

Fox Harb’r Golf Resort & Spa ****
Ron Joyce, the billionaire behind the ubiquitous Canadian coffee-and-doughnut chain Tim Hortons, commissioned Graham Cooke to design a personal playground for him and a limited number of high-rolling guests. The resulting course is a part parkland, part faux-links design that hits a crescendo on the seaside holes, fifteen through seventeen, where golfers can see straight across the Northumberland Strait to PEI. To play Fox Harb’r, which is so finely maintained you’ll be hard-pressed to find a single unfilled divot, guests must stay at the encompassing resort. For those so inclined, Fox Harb’r can be reached by helicopter, small plane or yacht, thanks to a private runway and marina. 1337 Fox Harbour Road, Wallace, Nova Scotia; 866-257-1801, foxharbr.com. Yardage: 7,253. Par: 72. Slope: 141. Architect: Graham Cooke, 2001. Greens Fee: $180

The Links at Crowbush Cove ****
Of all the courses to open in the region in recent years, none is more responsible for the surge in interest in Atlantic Canada golf than Crowbush Cove. The Thomas McBroom design is renowned for a stretch of holes that brush against giant dunes and the Northumberland Strait. The course teases players with a glimpse of the ocean at the close of the front nine, while the back nine runs into the dunes. Some sensitive environmental areas forced McBroom to make the occasional design concession—notably the awkward carry over wetlands on the par-five eleventh—but a round at Crowbush Cove is still a grand golf experience.
Route 350, Lakeside, Prince Edward Island; 800-235-8909, golflinkspei.com. Yardage: 6,903. Par: 72. Slope: 148. Architect: Thomas McBroom, 1994. Greens Fees: $72–$85.

The Algonquin Golf Course ***1/2
Donald Ross, as legend has it, visited the site of the Algonquin so briefly that the course was designed on the back of a napkin. The resulting layout was—no surprise—one of the great Scot’s minor works, leaving Thomas McBroom plenty of room for improvement during his renovation in 2000. McBroom’s routing retains the resort flavor—it’s walkable, with wide, forgiving fairways—but makes better use of its seaside location. The best holes, including the par-three twelfth, take in the ocean. Playing 154 yards downhill to a windswept green perched by the sea, the twelfth is an Atlantic version of the seventh at Pebble Beach. 465 Brandy Cove Road, St. Andrews, New Brunswick; 506-529-8165, algonquingolf.com Yardage: 6,908. Par: 72. Slope: 134. Architect: Thomas McBroom, 2000. Greens Fee: $89.

Bell Bay Golf Club ***1/2
The newest layout in Cape Breton, Bell Bay is about an hour’s drive south of Highlands Links, and it’s the perfect warm-up for the main event. This is partly due to its terrific fifteen-acre practice facility, one of the best in Canada (and Highlands Links doesn’t have one at all), as well as for the course itself: a challenging, modern affair with wide fairways giving way to tricky, undulating greens. There are few courses in Canada that can rival Bell Bay’s stretch from the long par-four fifteenth through to the finale, a 566-yard par five overlooking the glittering Bras d’Or Lake. 761 Highway 205, Baddeck, Nova Scotia; 800-565-3077, bellbay.ca. Yardage: 7,037. Par: 72. Slope: 137. Architect: Thomas McBroom, 1997. Greens Fees: $58–$71.

Glen Arbour Golf Course ***1/2
Located twenty minutes from Halifax airport, Glen Arbour is an upscale public facility created by Montreal architect Graham Cooke. The course leads golfers into an isolated world of hardwoods and tranquil lakes. The fourteenth, a par five with Bottle Lake threatening the entire left side of the fairway, and the long par-three seventeenth, with its small green perched amid wetlands, are standouts on a course with multiple remarkable holes.
40 Clubhouse Lane, Hammonds Plains, Nova Scotia; 877-835-4653, glenarbour.com. Yardage: 6,800. Par: 72. Slope: 138. Architect: Graham Cooke, 1999. Greens Fees: $85–$108.

Best of the Rest

For a full tour of Cape Breton Island, also check out Dundee Golf Course (800-565-5660) and Le Portage Golf Club (888-618-5558). Slightly off the beaten path in Nova Scotia is Stanley Thompson’s Digby Pines Golf Course (800-667-4637), which recently received a face-lift from Graham Cooke. Cooke was also the force behind the award-winning Claws Course at Kingswood Park (800-423-5969) in Fredericton, New Brunswick.While it’s overshadowed by neighboring Fox Harb’r, Northumberland Links (902-243-2808) has several strong seaside holes and can be played at a fraction of the cost. Finally, if you’re looking to extend your trip farther afield, Doug Carrick’s Humber Valley (709-686-8100) up in Newfoundland is part of a luxurious new year-round resort.

Where to Stay

The Fairmont Algonquin For more than a hundred years, this historic hotel, which is only a short walk from the village of St. Andrews, has been a popular retreat for vacationers from Canada and the eastern United States alike. The 234 rooms were recently renovated, bringing the Algonquin’s elegant interiors in line with modern comforts. Make sure to catch the superb Sunday brunch. 184 Adolphus Street, St. Andrews, New Brunswick; 506-529-8823, fairmont.com/algonquin/. Rooms: $271–$362. Suites: $408–$517.

Fox Harb’r Golf Resort & Spa Gazing from your window across the metallic blue waters of Northumberland Strait, it’s easy to slip into a deep reverie admiring the remote beauty of Ron Joyce’s Fox Harb’r. Guests stay in large suites in one of twelve manor houses equipped with a host of luxe amenities, including high-thread-count linens and heated marble bathroom floors. There is also a world-class spa and hunting retreat on-site. 1337 Fox Harbour Road, Wallace, Nova Scotia; 866-257-1801, foxharbr.com. Standard Suites: $295. Executive Suites: $363.

The Halliburton There’s no better place to get accustomed to Maritime life than this intimate nineteenth-century boutique hotel comprised of three connected townhouses in Halifax’s downtown core. With a mix of comfortable rooms and suites—some offering views of the hotel’s well-tended gardens—the Halliburton is a great place to recuperate from the journey and start exploring the historic city. 5184 Morris Street, Halifax, Nova Scotia; 902-420-0658, thehalliburton.com. Rooms: $171. Suites: $211.

Keltic Lodge Resort and Spa With its commanding position on a rocky bluff high above the Atlantic, few hotels can rival Keltic Lodge’s location. The lodge, which was originally part of a private estate, is a smooth seven-iron from the first tee of Highlands Links. Visitors can stay at the main lodge or in one of twelve cozy two- to four-bedroom cottages. Everything about Keltic Lodge, from its use of native timbers to the colorful Muskoka chairs scattered here and there on the grounds, conjures up a harmonious sense of place that is hard to forget. Middle Head Peninsula, Ingonish Beach, Nova Scotia; 800-565-0444, signatureresorts.com. Rooms: $135–$268. Cottages: $433–$829.

Rodd Crowbush Golf & Beach Resort Prince Edward Island’s only five-star resort, the Rodd Crowbush offers all the amenities—from tennis to an excellent spa—expected from a modern golf retreat. Several rooms overlook the Links at Crowbush Cove and the island’s north shore. One- and two-bedroom cottages are also available.
Route 350, Lakeside, Prince Edward Island; 800-565-7633, roddhotelsandresorts.com. Rooms: $183–$202. Suites: $238–$275. Cottages: $290–$332.

Where to Eat

Da Maurizio (Italian) Executive Chef Maurizio Bertossi takes Northern Italian cuisine and fuses it with the area’s bountiful seafood. The handmade agnolotti pasta stuffed with lobster and served in a tomato cream pesto is especially fine. Da Maurizio’s location in trendy downtown Halifax makes it a great treat to start or finish your golf trip.
1496 Lower Water Street, Halifax, Nova Scotia; 902-423-0859. $$$

The Inn at Bay Fortune (Maritime) After tackling Crowbush Cove, consider dinner at this quaint inn, one of only eight restaurants in Atlantic Canada given a four-star AAA rating. The Inn at Bay Fortune serves contemporary cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere. Try the five-course tasting menu—it changes almost daily—to get a real feel for Maritime cuisine. Bay Fortune, Prince Edward Island; 888-687-3745. $$$

Kingsbrae Arms (French Canadian) The Kingsbrae Arms is a turn-of-the- century country manor house set high on a hill overlooking vast gardens and the sea. The restaurant, which specializes in seafood and game, also excels with its wine pairings. Should one overindulge, there are a handful of well-appointed rooms available upstairs.
219 King Street, St. Andrews, New Brunswick; 877-529-1897. $$$$

Purple Thistle Dining Room (Seafood) Located at Keltic Lodge, the Purple Thistle’s decor may be a throwback to another era, but the ocean views are spectacular and the food is as good as you’ll find anywhere in Atlantic Canada. Ask for a bib and order the lobster, which may have just been caught in the water the restaurant overlooks.
Middle Head Peninsula, Ingonish Beach, Nova Scotia; 800-565-0444. $$$$

Activities

Whale Watching
At least sixteen different whale species, including the great humpback, migrate to Atlantic Canada’s waters in the summertime. The pods often travel close enough to shore that they can be seen from the Cabot Trail, but the best way to get up close and personal is through one of the region’s many whale-watching outfitters, reasonably priced at around $25 per person. Captain Cox’s Whale Watch (888-346-5556, aco.ca/captcox) at the north end of Cape Breton Island is among the most popular.

PEI Beaches
There are more than ninety picturesque beaches on Prince Edward Island, with a color palette of sands ranging from white to brick red, and you’ll sometimes have them to yourself. PEI boosters love pointing to the warming effect of the Gulf Stream on the local waters, but you’d still better be hardy if you’re planning on a swim, as the water won’t be much above seventy degrees. On the island’s north shore, Thunder Cove, with its surreal red sandstone cliffs, is one of the most beautiful spots in all of Canada, while the south shore’s Basin Head, well-known among locals, features “singing sands”—by a rare geological phenomenon, the beach emits a mysterious whistle when you walk on it.

Maritimes Plus

Halifax Pubs
With its Celtic flair and connection to maritime traditions, Halifax is a surefire spot to find some great watering holes. Consider hitting the Argyle Street strip, especially the trendy Economy Shoe Shop (902-423-7463, economyshoeshop.ca), a ten-year-old Halifax institution that is actually an eclectic complex of interconnected bars. Monday night jazz at the Shoe, as locals call it, is a highlight. Next door, rock bands are a regular feature at the Seahorse Tavern (902-423-7200, theseahorse.ca). On tap: Horsepower SS, the pub’s “super secret” house brew.

Cape Breton Dancing
Ceilidhs (pronounced “kay-lees”), or gatherings, are the distilled essence of the region’s Celtic culture. Expect to see everyone from eight to eighty dancing up a storm to the kinetic musical brew of fiddles, dulcimers, Irish flutes and bodhrans (Irish frame drums). Ceilidhs are frequent Saturday-night entertainment in the provinces and usually take shape from the grassroots. You can look in local newspapers or ask at your hotel for details, but you’re just as likely—at least in a town like Baddeck—to see a pub sign stating there’s a ceilidh here tonight.

Orientation

Getting There
Atlantic Canada is a region large enough to have its own time zone, so expect to take a week or more to cover its sporting and cultural highlights. Fly into Halifax International Airport (only ninety minutes from Boston); from there you can tackle the best eastern Canada has to offer by car. Starting at Glen Arbour just outside Halifax, take the unforgettable six-hour drive to Highlands Links, potentially broken up by a stop at Bell Bay Golf Club in the charming village of Baddeck. After Highlands Links, a multitude of possibilities exists, including driving west along the Trans-Canada Highway toward Fox Harb’r Golf Resort & Spa and Northumberland Links, or taking the ferry from Pictou, Nova Scotia, directly to Prince Edward Island. For drivers from New England, the Fairmont Algonquin should be the first stop—it’s located in St. Andrews, New Brunswick, which practically straddles the international border.

Climate
Golf is best played in Atlantic Canada from the middle of June until the end of October. The main consideration should be when Highlands Links opens, as shoulder-season visitors have been known to discover the course still blanketed by snow well into May. In summer months, only the occasional mosquito should keep you from wearing shorts. Fall golf in the region can be breathtaking, as the brilliant reds and yellows of the turning leaves present a cascade of color behind a well-struck shot. Just make sure to pack for crisp weather.

A better than average rundown of golf in BC — including talking heads like former PGA Tour pro Dick Zokol:

Have clubs, will travel: Traveling in and around London, England by train is relatively straight forward.

By Robert Thompson

At 6 a.m., and London’s ritzy Sloane Square is just starting to bustle with bleary-eyed commuters heading to the Underground, as I duck out of the Draycott Hotel and cross the street, carefully avoiding the never-ending parade of red double decker buses. I slip a handful of pound coins into a machine on the wall of the tube station, grab my ticket and proceed down the escalator.

As I head to the platform and await the subway, those making an early dash to their downtown London offices shoot me looks between sipping their coffees. They have briefcases tucked under their arms, but over my shoulder I’m carrying my golf bag. On a glorious day in mid-April they are heading to work. I’m heading to Waterloo Station to catch my train to the town of Sandwich on England’s south-east coast, where I’ll spend the day playing Royal St. George’s Golf Club before catching a late afternoon train back to the city just in time to catch the last rush of those heading home from their workday. 

The notion of playing golf around London by train might baffle some, but it seems perfectly sensible to me. After all, London is surrounded by great golf, while the city proper is renowned for its vibrant city life, its theatres and historic buildings. Of course it is also known for having some of the most horrific traffic in the world. To most tourists, the concept of driving out of  London – with its narrow roads, roundabouts and the fact you drive on the wrong side of the street —  instills fear, and rightfully so. While it might have perpetual gridlock and an often confounding system of roads, the United Kingdom has a remarkable network of trains. Slightly more than two hours after catching the Southeastern train from Waterloo Station, I’m standing in the tiny town of Sandwich. It turns out that few turn up by tracks when it comes to playing Royal St. George’s.

“We might get a few players – 10 or 12 a year,” says Bill, the locker room attendant at the club, soon after picking me up for the three-minute drive to the course.

Royal St. George's terrific 8th hole.

I have no idea why more don’t try it. The trip has been comfortable – I work on my laptop and watch a series of villages fly by the window in a half-filled train. No traffic jams or morning rush to beat. The train system in the UK is also exceptionally reliable – meaning you can be pretty much assured you’ll show up in time for your tee time.

Wandering into the clubhouse at Royal St. George’s is like stepping into a time warp. The club, which has hosted 13 Open Championships (with the most recent, in 2003 being won by Ben Curtis and its next coming in 2010), is decorated with photos of golf’s past greats. Old black-and-white shots of Harry Vardon, and Walter Hagan, who won the British Open twice at the course, add to the character of the clubhouse. As well, male guests and members are expected to don a jacket and tie to fraternize in the men’s lounge or to have a meal in the restaurant. These elements – throwbacks to another era – make the club both archaic and charming. 

It is the golf that makes Royal St. George’s great. Set just across a road from the English Channel, the course is a magnificent links and the first English course to hold the British Open. It is easy to see why. The course is both imminently fair and challenging. Sure there’s the occasional blind shot – like the approach on the 5th hole, or the tee shot of the 7th – but in those instances the course feels like a book that reveals itself page by page. When it isn’t being set up to test the best golfers in the world, Royal St. George’s firm and fast fairways and false-front greens are very playable, even in with a stiff breeze blowing off the ocean.

The best hole’s on the course are the beefy and muscular par-4s, like the fourth, which plays a diabolical 496-yards from the championship tees (and a more reasonable 415-yards from the standard tees), and the 10th, which plays along a ridge line and ends with a green that looks like it is perched in the sky. The pace is brisk and I play two rounds in around three hours a piece and am back on the train to London in time for a late dinner.

Woking's Sixth -- a course worth seeking out.

The next day I sleep a little later with no rush to get to Woking Golf Club, a little-known heathlands gem that’s about 30 minutes outside London by train. I don’t have to duke it out with the commuters today, so I tuck into a breakfast at my hotel, the Draycott, a delightfully enchanting boutique that’s a walk of a few minutes from the tube, making it pretty much perfect for golf by rails experiment. Woking is only a 25 minute trip and a short cab ride into an unassuming parking lot next to a public walkway.

The course itself is accepting of visitors, though the assistant pro acknowledges few come by. Woking is private, but like most in the U.K., the club also accepts outside play with some time restrictions. On a bright April day, I walk onto the first tee without issue. Part of a suburban network of heathland courses, built on rambling land and framed by heather, Woking harkens back to a time when the game wasn’t dominated by titanium clubs and super-springy golf balls. Though short by today’s standards at 6,500 yards, shifts in elevation, a set of tricky greens and the ever-present heather make the course trickier than it would appear on the score card. Despite an old-fashioned feeling, Woking is probably tough enough for any golfer, and its proximity to London makes it a great hidden gem worth investigating.

The remarkable clubhouse at Sunningdale

The last day of my train odyssey takes me to Sunningdale Golf Club, about an hour’s train ride to the south-west of London. I catch rush hour again, forcing my way with my clubs onto a tube full of Londoners heading to work. But the train ride to Sunningdale is again calming with only a handful of passengers leaving the city. The legend at Sunningdale is that many decades ago a former director at British Rail became a member at the club and a week later there was a train stop in the village. Whether that’s an urban myth is hard to discern, but golf club resides less than 100 metres from the train stop.

The 17th and 18th holes at Sunningdale Old, a Willie Park Jr. design

Often regarded as the U.K.’s finest parkland golf facility, there are two courses at Sunningdale – the so-called Old and New (both of which are now about 100 years old). Visitors are welcome to the club from Tuesday through Thursday, but the tee at the Old Course is quiet when I arrive. That’s surprising given just how good both courses are. The Old Course, crafted by Willie Park Jr., is slightly more forgiving, but what it lacks in toughness is more than made up in scenic value, with holes wandering up and down rolling hills and breathtaking elevated tee shots. The New Course – designed by Harry Colt, the architect behind Canada’s Hamilton Golf & Country Club in Ancaster, Ont. – is more challenging, while maintaining the remarkably aesthetic appeal of its slightly older neighbor.

Three hours after I hit my opening tee shot on the Old Course, I prepare to hit my approach to the 18th, a nasty par-4 with a green perched in front of the veranda where members are eating lunch only a few paces from the putting surface. I don’t hold up to the pressure well, pushing an iron right of the green. But hardly anyone seems to notice – and the scene is so appealing that I quickly stash my clubs and head to the clubhouse to sit outdoors and tuck into a sandwich.

Harry Colt's fine "New" course at Sunningdale

I sit under the blazing sun watching golfers attempt to put the polish on their rounds as they approach the final green. The train back to London beckons, but I’m in no rush to head back down the hill to the station. Instead I sit back for a few minutes more, drinking in a scene that is quintessential to English golf.   

If you go:

Sunningdale Golf Club

Peak Season: Old – £190.00            New – £155.00           Both -£265.00

www.sunningdale-golfclub.co.uk

Woking Golf Club

£60.00

www.wokinggolfclub.co.uk

Royal St. George’s Golf Club

Green fee: £140

www.royalstgeorges.com

Hotel: 

Draycott Hotel

www.draycotthotel.com/

44 (0) 20 7730 6466

Here’s a story on Bandon Dunes’ latest — Old Macdonald — that appeared earlier this year:

Old Macdonald's Short Hole -- the entire course opens for play in 2010

Dream Golf Adds a Historic Element

Famed Bandon Dunes Resort opens a fourth course – Old MacDonald

By Robert Thompson

Sitting in McKee’s Pub just steps from the main lodge at Bandon Dunes Resort, burly golf designer Jim Urbina sips on a glass of water, relaxing after a hard day of pushing earth around a sandy dunescape on a stretch of Oregon coastline. Urbina and golf architect Tom Doak have spent the last 18 months working on the fourth course at Bandon Dunes, regarded by many as the finest group of golf courses under one owner in the world. Already two of its layouts, Bandon Dunes and Pacific Dunes, are ranked among the Top 100 courses in the world according to Golf Magazine. And every time a new course opens at the resort – as happened in 2006 with Bandon Trails – the entire golf world scrutinizes it.

But Urbina understands the latest addition at Bandon Dunes, a destination almost single-handedly built out of the vision of Chicago greeting card baron Mike Keiser, may be misunderstood by many. Assuming you’re already sold on the resort’s rustic links golf and its remote location (it’s a five-hour drive from Portland, or a short flight to nearby North Bend from San Francisco and Portland), the new course, Old MacDonald, requires a little imagination and an appreciation of golf history.

No, there’s not a farm on the course, nor pigs nor cows. The name is a reference to C.B. MacDonald, a legendary American golf designer who created what are generally regarded as the first great golf courses in the United States in the opening decades of the 20th century. MacDonald believed there were a certain number of great golf holes that were found on links courses in Scotland and set about recreating his own versions of them at places like National Golf Links near the Hamptons in New York, or at Chicago Golf Club. The new course at Bandon is an homage to MacDonald’s work.

“Don’t call this a replica course or a Tour 18,” says Urbina, referencing a golf course that attempted to recreate exact copies of famed golf holes from the PGA Tour. “What we’ve been doing here is using the same notes and looking at the diagrams in the same way that MacDonald would have. We’re assuming he would have seen the same things and placed holes in the same places.”

Old MacDonald is part history lesson, and Urbina understands that. The course he and his team have built contains their own versions of holes like “Eden” from the Old Course at St. Andrews, or “Alps” from Prestwick. There’s also a “Biarritz” hole, which initially existed on a course in France. Old MacDonald’s version is 181 yards with a green that is more than 80 yards long, and features a huge ditch-like ravine running through the middle.

Urbina understands some golfers might find the course, which opened 10 holes to preview play at the start of April, to be a bit quirky and whimsical. But he adds that many golfers already take trips to Scotland to play the initial incarnations of the holes devised at Old MacDonald. And if they aren’t interested in the history, the course will still be fun to play and includes spectacular vistas of the Pacific Ocean.

“For the first-time visitor, a lot of them will look at you blankly when you tell them they are playing an Alps hole,” he explains. “But the caddies will help explain the history.  Mike [Keiser’s] vision for the place is to give golfers just enough of the history to let them digest the course for themselves.”

If You Go

Bandon Dunes Resort

Bandon, Oregon

The courses: Bandon Dunes, Pacific Dunes, Bandon Trails, Old Macdonald (opening June 2010)

Green fees on all courses from US$75 to US$220 depending on the time of year.

www.bandondunesgolf.com

(541) 347-4380

This was scheded to appear in T&L Golf before it folded and ended up in another magazine instead that most probably didn’t see. Anyway, for those interested in the interior of BC, here’s an overview:

In the middle of the 19th century, the Okanagan region of British Columbia was the site of an influx of prospectors of such number that the area became known as “the gold colony.” That gold rush is now part of history books, but in the past few years this mountainous region of the interior of this Canadian province has seen another sort of explosion – a golf rush.

With its temperate, dry climate that allows golf to be played from March through October, and the prevalence of vineyards throughout the region attracting wine and golf lovers alike, the Thompson/Okanagan region has seen more than 10 courses open in the past few years, with several more preparing to open in the next few years.

The area’s lure is easy to understand. Essentially a valley with remarkably varied land (rugged mountains to wooded regions) that stretches more than 200 miles from Kamloops in the north to Osoyoos on the Washington border, the Okanagan region is a four-season playground, with skiing in the winter months giving way to boating on the warm water lakes and golf on tumbling fairways as the weather heats up.

In many ways this dramatic region of Canada is like a nascent version of Napa Valley, punctuated by upstart boutique wineries run by those fleeing their jobs and anxious to retreat to the idyllic valley surrounded by the rugged beauty of the Canadian Rocky Mountains.

Not that it is all a rural retreat. Several of the best new courses have sprung up as the centerpieces of ambitious residential undertakings on the outskirts of the area’s largest cities. And though areas like Kamloops are growing quickly, the courses in the region often take visitors on breathtaking drives out of urban areas and through rolling wilderness before golf appears. Not everyone is aware of the explosion of golf in the region, but given the accolades several courses have recently received, that is sure to soon change.

Drama and challenge at Tobiano outside Kamloops

Day One: Kamloops/Kamloops Airport has regular flights from major Canadian hubs like Vancouver and Calgary, making it easy to fly into the center of the Okanagan valley. The airport is small, so you’ll have no trouble finding your clubs and rental car and driving an hour to the west on the highway before heading off on a road that plunges through Ponderosa pines.

That’s where you’ll find Tobiano Golf Club perched on the edge of the majestic Lake Kamloops. Created by designer Thomas McBroom as part of a massive resort and residential development, Tobiano, with its unusual mix of desert and mountain golf, is among the most visually stunning courses in all of Canada. Though it only fully opened to the public in late summer of 2007, Tobiano has been a magnet for attention since opening. The course utilizes a series of hills and valleys to great effect, and its expansive nature and the resulting long views are matched by the scale of the architecture. Forced carries abound, as does the occasional blind shot.

Just don’t get too involved in shooting photos of holes like the 15th, with its long views of the lake resting behind the green. That’s because Tobiano’s beauty belies its bite, which makes the course challenging and difficult in places.

If you’re searching for an upscale dinner after your round, head to Brownstone Restaurant in downtown Kamloops for an eclectic mix of dishes with a local flair. If something a bit more earthy catches your interest, try Ric’s Grill, a steakhouse that utilizes top-grade Canadian beef. 

When you’re finished, continue outside of town a little further east to the South Thompson Inn & Guest Ranch. The ranch part is clear from the drive up the laneway to this charming small hotel (only 57 rooms) with its Kentucky look. A separate guest house can be rented for larger golfing parties, and Rivershore Golf Links, designed by Robert Trent Jones, is a nine iron shot away from the inn.

Talking Rock's Sixth Hole.

Day Two: Driving in the scenic interior of British Columbia is a pastime on its own in a region where many come to hike and commune with their surroundings. Heading east along a winding highway that is mirrored to the north by meandering rivers and lakes, you’ll head 75 minutes to the Quaaout Lodge perched on the shores of Little Shuswap Lake.

Controlled by the Little Shuswap Indian Band, significant effort has been undertaken by the First Nations band to incorporate its heritage into all elements of the resort, including the spellbinding entrance to the resort created in to look like a traditional kekuli (winter house). That theme continues with Talking Rock, the resort’s golf course which opened two years ago.

Created by Wayne Carleton, Talking Rock has the classic feel of a Donald Ross course, with broad, sweeping fairways that wind through a pine forest. The back nine climbs up the side of a small mountain, before wandering down towards the resort starting at the 15^th, a picture-postcard par-3 with the lake as a dramatic backdrop.

The final hole of the course runs parallel to the shoreline of Little Shuswap Lake, ending with a fantastic green set beneath the resort. From there it is a short walk back to your room for a quick change of clothes before it is off to the lodge’s dining room. Once again, native elements have been highlighted in Jack Sam’s Restaurant, with its focus on local produce and meats. Try the native dishes specific to the resort, like the Cedar Board Salmon Steak, buffalo ragout or the traditional chicken or salmon in clay. Consider finishing the day with a visit to a native sweat lodge, one of several native-themed events that run regularly at the resort.

The new nine at Predator Ridge is designed by Doug Carrick and opens in 2010.

Day Three:

Drive about 90 minutes to Vernon, stopping at Davison’s Orchards. Though the Okanagan region is becoming renowned for its wines, the other lure of the temperate climate is its terrific orchards. Davison’s Orchards in one of the region’s most historic, and its apple pies are worth the pilgrimage. Tide yourself over with a treat before heading 15 minutes outside of Vernon to Predator Ridge Golf Resort. Check in at one of the resort’s ultra-comfortable cottages or ask for a room in the lodge, a recent addition to the resort.

It was Predator Ridge, set on a rolling expanse of property which raised the profile of the interior of B.C. when it came to golf, with 27 holes, including a course designed by Les Furber on a stunning group of low-rise hills. Its tight fairways and plunging greens are surely to give you a workout, and there’s more golf forthcoming. Toronto designer Doug Carrick is adding nine holes and renovating the other nine into a cohesive layout that will offer tee shots that plunge from tees set on the top of rocky crests. A third course, designed by former Masters champion Mike Weir, is said to also be on the books.

Have a late lunch in Predator’s stately clubhouse that overlooks the golf course. Its 5-star menu and wine selection have been augmented by a $1-million upgrade to the clubhouse over the last year.

Drop your clubs back at your cottage and head out for one of the key lures of the Okanagan region – wine. Many consider the region akin to Napa or Sonoma three decades ago. Take a short, picturesque drive along Kalamalka Lake  towards Kelowna where you’ll find the Gray Monk Estate Winery. Visiting might be the only way you’ll get to try Gray Monk wines; the winery doesn’t export outside of B.C. and has a hard time keeping its product on shelves in the province.

Finish your day with dinner at Gray Monk’s Grapevine restaurant with its mix of European fare highlighting local ingredients.

Thomas McBroom's Tower Ranch outside Kelowna

Day Four:

As the morning sun rises over the mountains, take a quick hour drive to the other side of Kelowna and stop by Quails’ Gate Estate Winery. With a wine tour that has won accolades and is considered one of the most interesting and educational in the region, the showcase at Quails’ Gate kicks off every morning at 11 a.m. through the summer season. That gives golfers enough time to take the tour and stop by the winery’s Old Vines restaurant, which overlooks Lake Okanagan, for lunch.

Then take a short drive across town to the stunning Tower Ranch Golf Course, another new course in the region by McBroom (he was two more in the region in construction, including a collaboration with Annika Sorenstam.

Tower Ranch is also a fitting end to a tour of Okanagan golf, as it brings together many of the region’s key elements. Its front nine plunges down a steep hillside, running adjacent to an orchard. When it rises on the back nine, particularly the green of the outstanding par-5 17^th, the course offers outstanding long views of not only the city of Kelowna, but the surrounding mountains and lakes.

Finish your day and tour of the Okanagan by checking into the Hotel Eldorado, a classy boutique hotel right on the shores of Lake Okanagan, that has been around for more than 80 years. Relax, head down the patio overlooking the lake and breathe in the experience because with numerous new courses in the offing, and the area’s vineyards gaining more attention, there’s more than enough to draw you back again.